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Usages

1. Treatment of dry Skin, eczema, and minor burns.
2. Pain Relief from Swelling and arthritis,
3. Improves muscle relaxation and stiffness.
4. Sunscreen, due to its rich content of vitamins E & Essential Fatty Acids (EFA’s)
5. threats dark spots, skin discolorations, stretch marks wrinkles and blemishes.
6. Massages, diaper rash and as a hair condition.

She butter Does not expire and is best stored in a cool dry place.

NO LYE! is probably my favorite book on the topic of natural haircare for Black women. Although I’ve owned it for several years, I still find myself pulling it off the bookshelf when I’m contemplating a new style.

Tulani takes a decidedly “Afrocentric” approach to hair styling so you won’t find any braid styles that “mimic” European hair (for example, there are no weaves or individual braids w/ human hair ends left free flowing).

Sisterlocks, Flat Twist, two-strand twist, palm roll twist, Comb Coiling, and just about every thing on braid extension and hair wrappings can be found in “No Lye”. And those of you looking for the “Root of it all” that’s chapter 1, understanding our hair and the composition of it.

NO LYE! is full of useful information about the various “types” of African hair and how to best care for it in it’s natural state. It also contains information on hair adornment, proper diet, caring for children’s hair, alopecia and dryness/breakage.

In this book I learnt what is the best PH balance for our hair, why my hair might be dry or flaky. Tulani explains how you can make herbal and fruit conditioners from your own kitchen.

The book is full of beautiful black and white pictures of sisters (with and without extensions) sporting braids, naturals and locked styles. Since I’m considering locking my own hair, I found the info in the lock chapter to be inspiring and extremely helpful.

Tulani mentions in the book and I quote” Eventually your status as an “educated consumer” will have an impact upon the product manufacturer’s research and development process. You will move away from products that are popular or familiar, toward products that you know will satisfy your hair’s biochemical needs”

In any case, I would recommend this book to anyone that has recently made the commitment to natural hair.

Black hair should not be shampooed every day, or every other day for that matter. Instead, shampoo your hair every 5-7 days. I know this may confuse those who shampoo daily; however, you must remember that Black hair needs oil, and because it distributes less sebum, frequent shampooing can dry out the hair and scalp.

Tip for getting through “shampoo-less” days:

Rinse hair with warm water, apply conditioner, and rinse well. This will give you a clean start and provide added conditioning and moisture without stripping away protective oils.

Proper conditioning is one of the most important steps for healthy hair. Unfortunately, most do not take the time to adequately do so. I recommend giving your hair a deep conditioning (with heat) once a month, especially during the winter season.

We’ve discussed the need for natural oils for Black hair. However, you must know that not all oil is good oil. One misconception that plagues African Americans concerning hair care is the use of grease. Grease (thick pomade-like product that usually contains mineral oil and/or petrolatum) is commonly used to moisturize dry hair and scalp. Do not use products that contain mineral oil or petrolatum. Both of these cheap oils clog pores, rob the hair’s moisture and can retard hair growth. Natural oils are the best bet. Jojoba oil and coconut oil are great conditioning oils. Shea butter is an excellent moisturizer. Pomegranate seed oil is my personal favorite. This exotic oil has excellent moisturizing and nourishing properties and is rich in lipids and essential nutrients.

To avoid pain, tears, and massive hair loss when combing out kinky hair, part the hair into four sections. Get a tight grip on the hair and start combing at the bottom and work your way up to the top, section by section. If her hair is extremely thick and coarse, secure the combed out section with a pony tail holder to avoid further tangling. You should always use a moisturizer when combing your hair out, doing so will help to soften the hair and ease comb-ability. ]]> http://naturalhair.dpsyko.net/4-african-american-hair-care-errors/feed/ http://naturalhair.dpsyko.net/when-water-isnt-such-a-good-thing/ http://naturalhair.dpsyko.net/when-water-isnt-such-a-good-thing/#comments Mon, 09 Apr 2007 09:28:16 +0000 Nappy Hair http://naturalhair.dpsyko.net/2007/04/09/when-water-isnt-such-a-good-thing/ Moisture, moisture, moisture. I can never stress it enough. Your hair needs it. But your home’s water may be your hair’s worst enemy.

If your hair is dry and unmanageable, it may not be your products, it may be your water. Did you know that the quality of your water can actually determine how well (or badly) your shampoo and conditioning routine works? And if your house water is chlorinated, mineralized or fluoridated, it can cause your hair to break and split.

You may not have noticed the effects of water quality when you had relaxed hair because you probably didn’t wet your hair as often and had to employ extra damage control methods anyway. But now that you’re natural, water problems may present in the form of dry, hard, tangled hair. And no amount of conditioning, deep conditioning or product application will change it.

HARD WATER

Hard water is a fact in 85% of American homes according to the U.S. Geological Survey.

Water that has a high mineral (calcium and magnesium) content is called “hard water.” Often, if you live in an older area where copper pipes are still in use, you may have additional minerals in your water such as copper and iron. (among others). Of course, the more minerals present, the more pronounced the hard water symptoms will be.

What does hard water do?

1. The calcium and magnesium in hard water coats and builds up on everything the water comes into contact with, including your hair and scalp.
2. The buildup leaves hair coated and unmanageable, sometimes rough. The coating prevents conditioners from working directly on the hair strand.
3. The minerals dry out the hair.
4. Synthetic detergents such as the sulfates found in shampoos (SLS, ALS) are less effective in hard water because the active ingredient is partially inactivated by hardness.
5. Soap used in hard water combines with the minerals to form a sticky soap scum.
6. Bathing with soap in hard water leaves a film of sticky soap curd on the skin which may prevent removal of soil and bacteria.
7. Soap scum interferes with the return of skin to its normal, slightly acid condition, and may lead to irritation.
8. Soap scumon hair makes it dull, lifeless, tangled and difficult to manage.
9. Using harsher shampoos or shampooing more often to attempt to remove buildup will worsen hair’s condition.
10. Also, your white clothes will not look as white as they should after washing in hard water, and may even look gray. Clothes will feel hard and rough
11. Detergents don’t froth very well, including shampoos.
12. Your dishes will not clean properly, especially if you use a dishwasher - the glasses may look spotty and coated

.

I may have hard water, what can I do?:

Well, if you suspect you have hard water, test your water for hardness by using a kit you can purchase from any hardware store. The kits are usually cheap, around $5 for a single use kit. Any kit will give you a good indication of the degree of water hardness.

There are a few ways to remedy your hard-water-hair-problem. You can go ahead and purchase from Ouidad their Water Works Shampoo system which comes with a water testing kit. There are other shampoos out there that claim to counteract the hard water problem, too.

But the best way is to purchase a whole house water conditioner, which may seem expensive until you compare it with having to purchase special shampoos all the time and re-wash dishes and clothes.

A cheaper way is to purchase a special unit for just your shower. Either way, filtering is the only safe and sure way to eliminate your water problem and improve your hair’s condition.

Once your filter system is in place, you will notice a big difference in you hair’s manageability and softness.

1. ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: This is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). Isopropyl alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics. This petroleum-derived substance is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac. Natural hair reacts very badly to isoalcohol and this ingredient should be avoided at ALL costs. It will dry your hair out and break it off. According to A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, inhalation or ingestion of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis and even coma.

2. MINERAL OIL & PETROLATUM: The best baby oil is made from almonds. But the oil which being sold as baby oil is 100% mineral oil. Mineral oil is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid and lubricating oil. This commonly used petroleum ingredient coats the skin and hair just like plastic wrap. The skin’s natural barrier is disrupted as this plastic coating inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb the Natural Moisture Factor (moisture and nutrition). The skin’s ability to release toxins and wastes is impossible through this “plastic wrap,” which can promote acne and other disorders. It further hinders normal skin respiration/transpiration by keeping oxygen out. This process slows down skin function and normal cell development causing the skin to prematurely age. Holding in large a mounts of moisture in the skin can “flood” the biology and may result in immature, unhealthy, sensitive skin that dries out easily.

Petrolatum - A petroleum-based grease that is used industrially as a grease component. Petrolatum exhibits many of the same potentially harmful properties as mineral oil. Honestly, this stuff belongs in your engine, not on your hair. Regardless of “Well, my Grandma used vaseline on her hair and it grew “, the bottom line is this stuff is bad. It was bad for Grandma and it is bad for you.

3. PEG: This is an abbreviation for polyethylene glycol that is used in making cleansers to dissolve oil and grease as well as thicken products. Because of their effectiveness, PEG’s are often used in caustic spray on oven cleaners and yet are found in many personal care products. PEG’s contribute to stripping the Natural Moisture Factor, leaving the immune system vulnerable. They are also potentially carcinogenic.

4. PROPYLENE GLYCOL (PG): As a “surfactant” or wetting agent and solvent, this ingredient is actually the active component in antifreeze. There is no difference between the PG used in industry and the PG used in personal care products. It is used in industry to break down protein and cellular structure (what the skin is made of) yet is found in most forms of make-up, hair products, lotions, after-shave, deodorants, mouthwashes and toothpaste. It is also used in food processing. Because of its ability to quickly penetrate the skin, the EPA requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles when working with this toxic substance. The Material Safety Data Sheets warn against skin contact, as PG has systemic consequences such as brain, liver and kidney abnormalities. Consumers are not protected nor is there a warning label on products such as stick deodorants, where the concentration is greater than that in most industrial applications.

5. SODIUM LAURYL SUFATE (SLS) & SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES): SLS is used in testing labs as the standard ingredient to irritate skin. Used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. Yet both SLS and SLES are used more widely as one of the major ingredients in cosmetics, toothpaste, hair conditioner and about 90% of all shampoos and products that foam. They are used in personal-care products because they are cheap. A small amount generates a large amount of foam, and when salt is added it thicken to give the illusion of being thick and concentrated. (SOME OF THE NITROSATING AGENTS ARE: SLS, SLES, DEA, TEA, MEA). Shampooing the hair with a product contaminated with these substances can lead to its absorption into the body at levels much higher than eating nitrite-contaminated foods.

Mark Fearer in an article, Dangerous Beauty, says,

“…in tests, animals that were exposed to SLS experienced eye damage, along with depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation and corrosion and death.” According to the American College of Toxicology states both SLS and SLES can cause malformation in children’s eyes. Other research has indicated SLS may be damaging to the immune system, especially within the skin. Skin layers may separate and inflame due to its protein denaturing properties. It is possibly the most dangerous of ad ingredients in personal care products. Research has shown that SLS when combined with other chemicals can be transformed into nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens, which causes the body to absorb nitrates at higher levels than eating nitrate contaminated food.” According to the American College of Toxicity report, “SLS stays in the body for up to five days…” Other studies have indicated that SLS easily penetrates through the skin and enters and maintains residual levels in the heart, the liver, the lungs and the brain. This poses serious questions regarding its potential health threat through its use in shampoos, cleansers and toothpaste,”

Studies show its danger potential to be great when used in personal-care products. Toxicity - A serious problem with these chemicals is that they may be contaminated with NDELA (N-nitrosodiethanolamine), one of the nitrosamines and a potent carcinogen, according to a 1978 FDA report.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - SLES is the alcohol form (ethoxylated) of SLS. It is slightly less irritating than SLS, but may be more drying. Both SLS and SLES can enter the blood stream. They may cause potentially carcinogenic formations of nitrates and dioxins to form in shampoos and cleansers by reacting with other product ingredients. Large amounts of nitrates may enter the blood system from just one shampooing. Contains ether.

6. CHLORINE: According to Doris J. Rapp, M.D., author of Is This your Child’s World?

“exposure to chlorine in tap water, Showers, pool, laundry products, cleaning agents, food processing, sewage systems and many others, can effect health by contributing to asthma, hay fever, anemia, bronchitis, circulatory collapse, confusion, delirium diabetes, dizziness, irritation of the eye, mouth, nose throat, lung, skin and stomach, heart disease, high blood pressure and nausea. It is also a possible cause of cancer.”

Even though you will not see Chlorine on personal care product labels, it is important for you to be aware of the need to protect your skin when bathing and washing your hair.

7. DEA (diethanolamine) MEA (momoethnanolamine) TEA (triethanolamine): DEA and MEA are usual listed on the ingredients label in conjunction with the compound being neutralized. Thus look for names like Cocamide DEA or MES, Lauramide DEA, etc. These are hormone disrupting chemicals and are known to form cancer causing nitrates and nitrosamines. . These are commonly found in most personal care products that foam, including bubble baths, body washes, shampoos, soaps and facial cleansers. On the show, CBS This Morning, Roberta Baskin revealed that a recent government report shows DEA and MEA are readily absorbed in the skin. Dr. Samuel Epstein, Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois said “repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of two cancers - liver and kidney cancers.” John Bailey, who oversees the cosmetic division for the FDA said the new study is especial important since “the risk equation changes significantly for children.”

8. FD & C Color PIGMENTS: Many color pigments cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Absorption of certain colors can cause depletion of oxygen in the body and even death according to A Consumer’s dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients.

Debra Lynn Dadd says in Home Safe Home:

“Colors that can be used in foods, drug, and cosmetics are made from coal tar. There is a great deal of controversy about their use, because animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic.”

9. FRAGRANCE: Fragrance is present in most deodorants shampoos, sunscreens, skin care, body care and baby products. Many of the compounds in fragrance are carcinogenic or otherwise toxic. “Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to 4,000 separate ingredients. Most or all of them are synthetic. Symptoms reported to the FDA have included headaches, dizziness, rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and allergic skin irritation. Clinical observation by medical doctors have shown that exposure to fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, irritability, inability to cope, and other behavioral changes,” (Home Safe Home).
For better health try purchasing unscented products and for fragrance, adding a natural essential oil.

10. IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA and DMDM HYDANTOIN: These are just two of the many preservatives that release formaldehyde (formaldehyde-donors). According to the Mayo clinic, formaldehyde can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations. Exposure to formaldehyde may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, Chronic fatigue, dizziness and loss of sleep. It can also aggravate coughs and colds and trigger asthma. Serious side effects include weakening of the immune system and cancer. Nearly all brands of skin, body and hair care, antiperspirants and nail polish found in stores contain formaldehyde-releasing ingredients.

Thousands of products are described and evaluated according to their performance, reliability, price, and claims. Begoun compares good and bad ingredients, dispels hair-care industry myths, evaluates what helps and what hurts hair, and explains how to tell the difference between reality and hype with respect to a product’s performance. Hair sprays, shampoos, conditioners, gels, mousses, pomades, silicone serums, and other items are covered. Her “Best Products” lists make it easy to find items worth trying in any category. The consumer bible of hair-care products, Don’t Go Shopping for Hair-Care Products Without Me shows how to find the best products available at the most economical prices. Ultimately, Begoun shows consumers how to have beautiful tresses without spending a fortune.